The Red-Eyed Pig in West Roxbury, which opened late last year, clearly encourages eating with your hands. Only flimsy plastic silverware is offered and the poor forks threaten to snap under the weight of bulky beef brisket ($12.95), charred outside with a moist center. Meaty ribs ($14 half rack, $24 full rack) have very little fat. Equally generous Uncle Jim’s smoky fried chicken ($10.95 half, $16.95 whole) and smoked chicken ($9.95 half, $15.95 whole) lean heavily on the house-smoked flavor, but they are perfectly cooked throughout. Not everything measures up to the meats. Most sides are merely passable, and in the case of the cheese spinach, don’t bother. One item stands out in name and taste: green chili and pork belly doughnuts ($6.50, pictured above), deep fried with farm cheese, lemon, and smoked paprika salt, then drizzled with garlic aioli.