Most contemporary drink lists strive for some sort of thematic consistency. But whether they are arranged geographically or seasonally, or paired with a culinary design, the unifying theme is usually just under the surface, revealing itself as you drink your way through.
At Church (69 Kilmarnock St., Boston. 617-236-7600. churchofboston.com) the list is a bit more overt, and - true to its name - a bit more brash. The Seven Deadly Sins cocktail list wears its intentions on its menu sleeve, as it were, tempting drinkers with a trip through some of our favorite vices. But instead of acting them out, in this case we get to drink them in, and the result is appropriately hedonistic. If anything, Greed (below, center; Hendricks Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, diced cucumber, white pepper, salted cucumber $10) made us greedy for another drink. The heavy nose of cucumber and rose from the gin combined with the sweetness of the liqueur contrasted perfectly with the salt and pepper of the garnish for a poignant vegetable flavor. More please.
After drinking Lust (below, left; cognac, Spanish brandy, lavender honey simple syrup, chocolate port , garnished with lavender$10), we can certainly see where it gets its name; it's not quite an aphrodisiac, but close enough to do the job. It's rare that the first thing you'll note in any version of a Sidecar is the bouquet, but here it's upfront before you even sip, and worth savoring, lingering over like the moment before a kiss.
Gluttony (below, right; banana rum, white chocolate liqueur, Thai coconut milk, fresh ripped mint, cocoa-dusted mint sprig $10), our particular vice of choice, happened to appeal to our sense of overindulgence. Eating dessert takes too much time, doesn't it? Better to drink it down in sweet, milky gulps. Similar in consistency and presentation, the Eggknot (Sazerac 6 year Rye, The Knot Irish whiskey, nutmeg and clove simple syrup, eggnog, shaved nutmeg, ) is a welcome seasonal addendum to the list. The relatively light house-made eggnog produces a rare eggnog drink that won't sit heavy in your stomach. And with so many vices weighing us down this holiday season, it's good to have a drink that won't do the same.
