Back in my day, by which I mean a completely invented past, a sports bar was an indecent place where dentally challenged townies stacked rows of dead soldiers on the bar noon to night. But now, with the Manifest Destiny-like march of sports culture across the Boston dining landscape, things have changed considerably. We're not ordering $15 Randy Mossijtos in novelty mugs just yet, but it can't be far off, can it? Fortunately, those polar opposites of style leave room for a middle ground, and The Spirit Bar (2046 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-868-1555 thespiritbars.com), fills the gap ably.
Despite its unassuming take on Irish pub-style bric-a-brac, with tucked-away dining tables and high-top banquettes along the wall, the smallish space still manages to assault the senses with its seven flat-screen televisions dominating the interior. Good news if you're there for a game, not so much for peace and quiet. A recent Saturday afternoon found a group of boisterous UMass basketball fans barking along with their team.
Fifteen beers on tap ranging from PBR ($2.75) to 20-oz. Guinness ($5), as well a decent specialty cocktails list, leave plenty of room for decision. The Bailey's Mint (Stoli Vanilla, Three Olives Chocolate, Baileys Mint, $8.50), was a deliciously frothy and creamy drink served in a chocolate syrup-laced glass, while the Razberri Latte (Stoli Raz, Kahlua French Vanilla, Godiva Liquer, $8.50), was a less inspired alcoholic milkshake of sorts.
Next time I'll be sure to try the bar special: five bottles and a pound of buffalo wings ($19.95) (Note to self, wear loose pants). Aside from the expected finger food it's obvious Spirit takes pride in its menu - something you can't take for granted at pubs like this. Dishes like the crusty and fluffy arancinis stuffed with beef, carrots, and peas ($9.95) and a 10-oz., center-cut sirloin steak ($16.95) reflect well on the bar's ambition and affordability, proving that there's plenty of room for people interested in both decent drink and food and a gluttonous sports onslaught at once.
"Barcode" runs every Saturday. Contact Luke O'Neil at lukeoneil47@gmail.com
