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Bring the Family

Smoke on the water

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August 9, 2008

Who: Boston Globe feature writer Bella English; her husband, Francis; and their son Nick, 16
What: WaterFire
Where: Waterplace Park in downtown Providence (waterfire.org) The next one takes place Aug. 16.

It's not an exaggeration to say that you have to see WaterFire to believe it. Several weekend nights from late May through October, three small rivers in the heart of Providence are set afire. Artist Barnaby Evans came up with the concept in 1994 to symbolize the city's renaissance, and now WaterFire draws people from all over the world.

The main attractions are the 100 bonfires on platforms blazing just above the water. It looks like the rivers are on fire, with the leaping flames creating an eerie light show. Classical music plays while lucky passengers float by in gondolas and other small boats.

My husband and I stood on a bridge watching the boats and flames while my son and his friend visited the many nearby booths for goodies of all kinds: fudge, pizza, pretzels, cookies, kettle corn, and so on. Later, we saw them a few blocks away listening to salsa music and watching audience members join the dance instructor onstage. When I jumped up there, the boys made a quick exit.

For a special treat, snag an outdoor table at Cafe Nuovo overlooking the river. In a small square nearby, we all had fun posing with the human "statues" - some gargoyles and a lady dressed in all silver, including her skin and hair.

The fire-tenders light the torches just after sunset and stoke them until just after midnight. Even the jaded teenage boys were impressed. [Bella English]

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