I want my baby bok, baby bok

Baby bok choy is the younger, slightly sweeter, and tenderer version of its grown-up equivalent, which is a type of Chinese loose-leafed cabbage (also called Chinese white cabbage). The oval, dark green leaves on a bunch of baby bok choy should be crisp and blemish-free, and the white stalks will remind you of celery, but without that fibrous, stringy quality. Asian markets offer a good selection, including the Shanghai variety, which has paler green leaves. You can also find darker bok choy heads called Canton (or dwarf) and tatsoi.For a quick and light dish, halve two bunches through the bulb lengthwise, rinse and drain, and then stir-fry in peanut oil over high heat. After 3 minutes, add 1 tablespoon each of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and water. Cook for 2 minutes, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Or trim the root end and slice horizontally into one-inch pieces, then toss into a pot of ginger-flavored chicken soup during the last few minutes of cooking.

ANNELIESE DOYLE

Baby bok choy ($1.98 per pound) is at many supermarkets.