Tomato sauce

(Salvatore Sanzo's salsa di pomodoro (tomato sauce) is thin at the beginning and thickens only slightly as it cooks. This adaptation is made with diced tomatoes instead of puree (we can't get as good quality puree as Sanzo buys). Refrigerate the sauce for up to 5 days. Makes about 7 cups.)

2 cans (28 ounces each) whole tomatoes, in their own juice

1 can (16 ounces) diced tomatoes, in their own juice

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon coarse or kosher salt

Crushed red pepper, to taste

1. Set a large, flame-proof casserole on the counter.

2. In a food mill set over a large bowl, puree the whole and diced tomatoes, discarding the seeds and any skins in the mill. Transfer the mixture to the casserole. Add the oil and salt. Transfer to a burner.

3. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 75 minutes. Remove from the heat and toss with cooked spaghetti, adding a pinch of crushed red pepper to the pasta when tossing.