Drink a toast to fine kosher wines
The explosion in the choice of
kosher wine has been phenomenal.
In only two decades the near
monopoly of Mogen David and
Manischevitz has been replaced
by a vast selection. Last weekend,
David Raines, wine director of
Gordon’s Fine Wines in Waltham,
held a tasting of 60 high-quality
kosher bottles. Sean Siegal of Marty’s
Liquors in Newton and Boston
noted that his stores carry 70 labels.
Bob Garfinkel, a consultant
to Royal Wine Corporation, the
country’s leading importer of kosher
wines, reported a selection of
more than 150 wines from Australia,
Chile, France, Italy, and Israel.
That Israel makes excellent
wine should be no surprise. The
Golan Heights is one of the best locations
for premium wine-grape
growing: cooler temperatures and
little humidity mean that grapes
can ripen slowly without rotting.
--MICHAEL APSTEIN
Premium bottles for the Seder table
Israel’s oldest winery, Carmel, known for its sweet kosher wines, has expanded into the premium wine market. Founded as a cooperative in 1882 with the help of Baron Edmond de Rothschild of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Carmel is still required to buy all the members’ grapes. However, the winemaker decides which grapes to use. For Carmel’s 2002 Vineyards Selected Emerald Riesling/Chenin Blanc the winemaker blends wine made from chenin blanc and emerald riesling to allow the natural acidity of the chenin blanc grapes to balance the sweetness of this variety of riesling. The result is a pleasantly refreshing, off-dry, easy-to-like wine. About $9. (Distributed by Ruby Wines, 508-588- 7007.)Yarden, one of Israel’s best wineries, makes sumptuous cabernet sauvignon. Yarden’s 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, with its hallmark of layers of black fruit flavors combined with supple tannins, is an excellent choice for a brisket. If you find older vintages of the cabernet, snap them up because, like all premium wines made from cabernet sauvignon grapes, they improve with age as they develop intriguing, nonfruit flavors. About $29. (Classic Wine Imports, 617-469-5799.)
Champagne may not be traditional at a Seder, but it is a good choice because it is very
food friendly and, after all, Passover is a celebration of the Jewish exodus from Egypt.
About 10 years ago, Laurent-Perrier, one of France’s great Champagne houses, introduced
two kosher Champagnes, a Laurent-Perrier non-vintage Brut and a non-vintage
Brut Rose. A group at an unscientific tasting could not distinguish between the kosher
and the nonkosher bottles. The Rose, made entirely from pinot noir, has a captivating
salmon color and is bolder and more intense. Both would be perfect with roast chicken.
About $57 and $75, respectively. (Horizon Beverage Company 800-696-2337.)
