In Tuscany, grape expectations for syrah

Tuscany, home to Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, is the world's leading location for the sangiovese grape, which comprises the backbone of those famous wines. Cabernet and merlot from this area have also gained recognition because they are frequently included in the blend of the so-called Super Tuscan wines. So when the owner of a Tuscan winery decides to plant mostly syrah, you start to wonder. But Massimo d'Alessandro did just that. And he obviously knows what he is doing at Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro. (His father, Luigi, purchased the property from a noble Tuscan family in 1967). An award-winning Roman architect, d'Alessandro divides his time between Rome and his winery just outside of Cortona, the village featured in the film "Under the Tuscan Sun." Long known for bulk wine produced from sangiovese, Cortona received official recognition (DOC status) for its wine in 1990.

But d'Alessandro had no interest in bulk wine. He aimed for international recognition. To produce great wines, he decided, you must match the grape variety with the soil and climate. In 1988, with that concept in mind -- and collaboration with an agricultural institute -- he planted seven different grape varieties, including sangiovese, in a 12-acre experimental vineyard.

After three years, he and his consultants agreed that syrah made the best wine. Over successive years, he has planted additional syrah and now has about 100 acres devoted to that grape. (Antinori, the prestigious Tuscan winery, seemingly confirming d'Alessandro's research, has also purchased land nearby and planted syrah.) D'Alessandro also found that chardonnay and viognier, a white grape that thrives in conditions similar to those for syrah, did well on his land and has planted a little of each of those varieties.

MICHAEL APSTEIN