Swordfish with sweet-and-sour rhubarb relish

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 red onion, coarsely chopped

Salt and pepper, to taste

4 stalks (½ pound) rhubarb, sliced into ½-inch pieces

½ cup golden raisins

¼ cup water

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar, or to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

1½ pounds swordfish steak, cut into 4 even-sized pieces

Olive oil (for sprinkling)

1. In a small, heavy-based saucepan, heat the oil and cook the onion with a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the onion softens.

2. Add the rhubarb, raisins, water, and sugar. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the rhubarb is very tender.

3. Stir in the balsamic and wine vinegars and thyme. Cook for 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat. Taste for seasoning and add more vinegar, if you like, 1 teaspoon at a time; salt; and pepper.

4. Light a grill or turn on the broiler. Place the swordfish steaks in a pan and sprinkle them with oil, salt, and pepper.

5. When the coals turn gray, grill the fish with the grill covered for 7 minutes on a side or until it is cooked through. Alternatively, broil the fish without turning for 10 minutes or until it is cooked through.

6. Spoon the relish onto 4 dinner plates and add a piece of fish to each one.

SHERYL JULIAN & JULIE RIVEN