A bundle of joy

For a crispy, lightly fried fish plate, no one does it better than Matt Murphy's. This Irish pub excels at crispy fish and chips, and the fried cod and potatoes ($13.95) fly out of the kitchen. The precious cargo, tied and wrapped in butcher paper and newspaper, lands gently at your place setting. "It's the traditional way fish and chips in England and Ireland are wrapped," explains chef Kevin Van Overbeeke. "The paper absorbs excess grease without making the fish soggy." With the anticipation of a special gift, the paper is torn open. A burst of steam emerges from the dish, and you're looking at a giant platter of lightly battered and perfectly seasoned codfish fillets. Top them with malt vinegar and enjoy the heap of homemade fries and pickled onions. Then take in the warm hospitality and atmosphere of this authentic pub.

JILL SANTOPIETRO

Matt Murphy's Pub is at 14 Harvard St., Brookline, 617-232-0188. Open Sun.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Food is served until 9 p.m. T stop: Brookline Village on the Green D Line.