Clamming up

These days it's not easy to locate a great version of the clam chowder for which New England is renowned. An upscale and delicious bowl is at B&G Oysters. There are lots of clam-filled bites in this $10 chowder. But you're not just paying for food here. You also get a parade of hip diners. The bowl is a light, buttery broth with small, whole littleneck clams and bite-sized potatoes. The chowder is topped with chunks of seared bacon, which add a subtle smokiness and salinity. Homemade puffed cheese crackers bob around in this medley of goodness.

JILL SANTOPIETRO

B&G Oysters Ltd. is at 550 Tremont St., South End, Boston, 617-423-0550. Open weekdays 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; weekends noon-11 p.m. T stop: Back Bay on the Orange Line.