A trip to the Coast

"Everything." That's what's recommended by the staff at Coast Cafe, a takeout spot in Cambridge where the food is as straightforward as the service. On a recent lunchtime visit, owner Tony Brooks was at the stove (a full five feet from the counter), replenishing his stock of collard greens. Brooks says that a few side dishes -- macaroni and cheese, collards, and sweet potatoes -- are the bestsellers on a menu that includes solid standards such as fried chicken, fish sandwiches, and pork chops. The meatloaf plate ($7.50) is a savory hunk of a meal, with a portion that will feed you twice, plus two sides to boot. The mac and cheese is rich and buttery; so is the corn. As for those fast-selling collards -- well, you'll have to see for yourself.

LEIGH BELANGER

Coast Cafe is at 233 River St., Cambridge, 617-354-7644.