Japanese bread crumbs pack a crunch

There is an old Polish proverb that claims in order for fish to taste right, it must swim three times; in water, in butter, and in wine. Apparently, the orator did not try panko. Nothing beats a fillet of firm white fish, coated in butter and dredged in the delicate,

very crisp Japanese bread crumbs. Think of panko as the superior, five-star cousin to preseasoned, finely ground supermarket crumbs. Panko is not made of rice, as some think, but rather of tiny flakes of bread ground from traditional yeast-risen dough. The most commonly available panko is white, made from the crumb of the loaf. The crumbs are not seasoned. The uncommon tan panko is made from the whole loaf. Unlike traditional Western bread crumbs, which turn soggy when baked, panko retains an airy, crunchy texture as it becomes golden brown.

Panko is not the type of bread crumb you would use to add bulk to meatballs or a meatloaf. It is best used as a simple coating. And even novice cooks can be successful with these Japanese flakes. Coat the food with oil or butter, then dredge it. One-pot dishes, such as homemade macaroni and cheese, benefit greatly from a panko topping. So do chicken drumsticks.

Once available only in Asian specialty markets, panko is now widely available in many supermarkets' Asian food section. Look for the Sushi Chef brand ($2.29 for 8 ounces) or the Dynasty brand ($1.99 for 3 1/2 ounces).