Perfectly creamed spinach

Serves 6.

1 1/2 pounds baby spinach, stems trimmed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup half-and-half or heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Drop in the spinach, cook 1 minute, and drain into a colander. Rinse with very cold water. When the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze the leaves in your hands to remove as much water as possible.

2. In saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Gradually add the half-and-half or cream with salt and pepper to taste. Let the mixture come to a boil; it will thicken. Simmer 2 minutes.

3. Add the spinach and continue to cook for 2 minutes or until the spinach is heated through. Add the nutmeg, taste for seasoning, and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Serve at once.

THELMA O'BRIEN