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FAMILY SUPPER

Deviled eggs

You'd be surprised how many famous American chefs were raised around very simple food prepared by mothers, grandmothers, and aunts. ''In Mother's Kitchen: Celebrated Women Chefs Share Beloved Family Recipes" by Ann Cooper and Lisa Holmes (Rizzoli), the authors tell lots of stories about women in the food world and capture some of these basic meals. We learn about Washington restaurateur Nora Pouillon's Hungarian goulash, the French Culinary Institute's founder Dorothy Hamilton's Czechoslovakian strudel, and other dishes from Europe, Asia, and the Far East. These deviled eggs are from Deann Bayless, co-owner with her husband Rick of Chicago's Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. Serves 6.

1medium red potato, peeled and cut into 8 pieces
6eggs
1tablespoon salt, or more to taste
1tablespoon yellow mustard
2tablespoons mayonnaise
2tablespoons sweet pickle relish
Chopped chives (for garnish)
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the potatoes and eggs and enough water to cover them by 1-inch. Add 1 tablespoon salt. Set over medium high heat and when the water comes to a simmer -- this will take about 10 minutes -- lower the heat to medium low. Let the eggs cook gently for 9 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the potato to a medium bowl. Tip the water out of the pan. Set the pan, still containing the eggs, under cold running water for 3 minutes.

2. Add the mustard, mayonnaise, and relish to the potato. Mash with a fork.

3. Peel the eggs and halve them lengthwise. Use a spoon to scoop out the yolks and add them to the potato mixture. Mash the yolks thoroughly with the rest of the mixture. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

4. Use a fork to fill the hollowed egg whites, mounding the filling slightly and covering the whole cut side of each white. Drag a fork lengthwise down the egg to make ridges. Arrange on a platter, garnish with chives, and serve.

Adapted from ''In Mother's Kitchen"

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