Turn ritual into adventure

Passover desserts are like that cream-colored suit that's been hanging in your closet for years: Since you might only wear it once during the season, why bother to get a new one?

The Passover holiday, which requires baking without flour, provides little incentive to improve upon tired recipes when you only make them once a year. But some bakers are always on the lookout for a fudgier brownie, a chewier almond macaroon, a fancier cake, or a flourless chocolate confection.

Brownies made with mild-flavored canola or safflower oil are moist and intense and can be served after either meat or dairy meals. Almond macaroons, made from just ground almonds, sugar, and egg whites, can turn out chewy or crisp depending on how many egg whites go into the batter and how longthey bake. These are delightfully chewy and not-too-sweet.

Now, about that suit.

LISA ZWIRN