Lobster roll reversal

Not that we don't love a traditional New England lobster roll, with its perfectly toasted bun and just the right balance of mayonnaise, celery, and lobster. But sometimes it's nice when someone thinks outside the bun, as it were. Tempo restaurant, a new American bistro on Waltham's restaurant row, does just that with its Asian-style lobster roll. Taking an old favorite and turning it on its head, this spring roll appetizer ($12) blends Napa cabbage and shredded carrots with cellophane noodles, and just the right amount of lobster, all wrapped in the traditional Vietnamese banh trang, or edible rice paper. The cool, light roll is served with a cilantro chili dipping sauce.

LYNDA M. BASSETT

Tempo is at 474 Moody St., Waltham, 781-891-9000.