In the Market

What it is: Corn, or Zea mays, was one of the ‘‘three sisters’’ staples — corn, squash, and beans — originally grown by Native Americans. An essential cereal in the Americas and throughout the world, corn needs lots of heat and sunshine to grow. Sweet corn is the type eaten fresh (most other corn is dried and ground into cornmeal or flour). Immediately after it is picked, corn begins to convert its sugars into starches. Modern corn hybrids have been bred to stay sweeter for longer, explains Steve Verrill of Concord’s Verrill Farm. The hybrids include supersweets and another called ‘‘sugar enhanced.’’ Says Verrill: ‘‘The more sugary ones that have the longest shelf life are generally the supersweets and tend to have a tougher kernel to them. They hold the sweetness, but some people feel they don’t have a good corn flavor. The sugar enhanced are the most popular. They have a good blend of tenderness, sweet, and corn flavor all in one.’’

How to use it: When selecting corn, look for plump, full kernels; brown, somewhat sticky silks; and newly cut stems. John Lee, general manager of Allandale Farm in Brookline says, ‘‘The husks should be tight, green, and slightly damp. There shouldn’t be any bruises. A lot of corn doesn’t fill out all the way to the top. If the corn is really right you should be able to bite off the top.’’ To boil corn on the cob, place shucked cobs in a pan of shallow, unsalted, boiling water and cook for 2 minutes, turning once. To grill cobs, gently pull back the husks without removing them, pull out the silk, and fold the husks back onto the cob. Wet the husks in water. Cook over coals for 7 to 8 minutes, rotating every minute or so until done. To remove kernels, stand the cob stem side down on a cutting board and use a paring knife to cut down the rows. Boil kernels in water for 3 minutes or saute them in a skillet until cooked through.

Where to buy it: Early corn varieties, planted in cooler spring soil, and later varieties of corn, whose seeds require warmer summer soil, are planted weekly through the spring and summer. Local corn is available through mid-September, sometimes into October or until the first frost. We’re in peak season. Farm stands and farmers’ markets sell corn that was picked that morning — which is what you want. Look for these: Imaculata, Silver Queen, Snowbelle, Seneca Dancer, Charmed, Providence, and Accord.

JILL SANTOPIETRO