These bottles are light in body and on the wallet

Red wines from Provence are what many people look for: affordable, delicious, and engaging bottles that go well with food, particularly the lighter dishes we eat before the weather turns chilly. They're not as prevalent as California chardonnay, but you won't have to look hard to find a satisfying choice.

Provence was the earliest known region in France to grow wine grapes. Reds typically include varying blends of syrah, grenache, carignan, cinsault, and mourvedre grapes; cabernet franc, merlot, and others are sometimes used.

Only about 16 percent of Provencal wines are red, and they are among the most flavorful and reasonable of the French wines, selling for $10 to $25. Curiously, considering the ripeness and intensity the area's climate gives the grapes, most are light enough to match well with grilled fish, meats, and tomato-based fish stews. Few bottles are aged completely in new oak, which can smother a wine's inherent qualities.

Reds from Provence's Bandol area -- full-bodied and pricey -- are the exception. These need years to mature, and they're better for cooler weather.

Many Provencal wines are organic, though not all producers state this on the label. A burgeoning number of winemakers practice biodynamic agriculture, best described as organic with a near spiritual passion. Demeter, named for the Greek earth goddess, is the French association that certifies this method, and its name is on many wines.

KEN STERNBERG