Getting to the root of wasabi

For some people, a trip to the sushi bar is just an excuse to experience the kick of wasabi. But the pleasantly pungent green paste served in this country is rarely made from actual wasabi root; more often it's regular horseradish doctored with food coloring. How can you get the real thing? Short of growing your own, the easiest route may be Real Wasabi ($5.95 for a 1/2-ounce jar), a powder of dried, ground wasabi root you can reconstitute with water. Before mixing, it smells a bit like green tea. After, the scent is herbal and eye-watering. The taste is sweeter than what you may be used to, with a lingering sharpness on the back of the tongue. The company that makes Real Wasabi claims it's a ''superfood" that boosts the immune system; all we know is that it clears your sinuses in a hurry. Real Wasabi is at 877-492-7224 or www.realwasabi.com. -- DEVRA FIRST