Not plain vanilla

The latest project by the ever-productive Didi Davis -- Ipswich-based cookbook writer, recipe tester, and teacher -- is a line of spice mixes that begins with a heady bang. Her first concoction, vanilla salt ($8.50, $17, and $26 for 1 1/2, 3 3/4, or 6 1/2 ounces), is made with fleur de sel and bourbon vanilla beans, and it gives a sweet-savory spin to watermelon, brings out the floral flavors in honeydew melon, and adds complexity to delicata squash. We can't wait to try the next salt combos, one combined with pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika) and another made with fennel pollen and thyme. Vanilla salt is available at John Dewar & Co., 753 Beacon St., Newton, 617-964-3577, and 277 Linden St., Wellesley, 781-235-8322; River's Edge Card & Gift, 15 Market St., Ipswich, 978-356-2363; and online at www.dididavisfood.com. -- JOE YONAN