American buffalo

Diners are craving red meat more than ever, as evidenced by the number of steak houses popping up. Knowing that familiarity can breed boredom, chefs are savvy enough to throw us a curve now and then. Coriander Bistro chef and co-owner Kevin Crawley offers beef on his menu -- usually a sirloin in a red wine sauce. But lately, the Sharon restaurateur has been experimenting with American buffalo. ''It's great," says Crawley, who put a buffalo steak with red Zinfandel sauce on his New Year's Eve menu and plans to keep it on in early January. Buffalo is ''leaner than beef, but reminiscent [of it]," he says. He thinks ''anyone who likes beef" will also enjoy buffalo.

Crawley got the idea from Steven LaCount, who has just opened Chiara in Westwood. Both taught classes in American regional cooking at Boston University's culinary arts program. At his restaurant, Crawley uses a large tenderloin of buffalo, which costs about $33 for an 8- to 10-ounce portion. He sprinkles the meat with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and sears it to keep the interior moist and juicy. The steak is served with Delmonico potatoes and the wine sauce. ''It's a conversation starter," Crawley says. And the buffalo is ''real American winter comfort food." -- ALISON ARNETT