Two chefs give meatloaf new life
Meatloaf has taken its rightful place in the annals of American comfort food. But some versions can be horrid. Sean Simmons hated meatloaf as a child. Simmons's memory is of a bland concoction of ketchup and ground beef. ''There just wasn't a lot of thought put into it," says Simmons, a Dorchester native who is chef and owner of the Parish Cafe and Bar in Back Bay. His mother cooked for nine children -- a triumph in and of itself -- put dinner on the table, and headed out for her job at the phone company. His father served the meal, and ''we had to finish everything on our plate," Simmons says.
To recover from his dark meatloaf memories, Simmons, convinced of the dish's unexplored potential, set out to create a palatable version. What resulted is his famed chipotle meatloaf, a spicy favorite that has been a staple of the Parish menu for the past 12 years. Customers must spend the warmer months longing for its reappearance on chilly days, though Simmons freezes batches of the specialty for one of his brothers.
It is hard not to prefacea meatloaf recipe by saying, ''It's really simple. You just . . ." And it's true that you just mix the ingredients and then put dinner on the table an hour later. At stakeis whether your creation is a heap of anemic ground meat or an appetizing and robust meal. For Simmons, smoky chipotle peppers en adobo (they come in a can and add a great boost to ordinary meat), roasted red onions, and a beef demi-glace sauce are the crucial components separating his meatloaf from the ordinaryone of his childhood. Slices of the loaf are served with a generous helping of garlic mashed potatoes.
The American classic is traditionally made with ground beef, but chef Brian Reyelt's lean ground turkey version has become increasingly popular at the South End's Franklin Cafe. Reyelt, who melds the turkey with dried fruits, is the first to admit that meatloaf has suffered the unfortunate fate of being associated with ''a full belly and a couch." Franklin owner David DuBois did some experimenting 10 years ago to come up with the moist meatloaf, which is smothered in an uncomplicated fig gravy that begs to be mopped up with bread. Reyelt describes the dish as ''a health-conscious meatloaf -- which is hard to find." It's developed a loyal following, as evidenced by the 100 pounds of ground turkey the kitchen goes through each day.
As for what to do with leftovers. . . . ''There usually aren't leftovers," says Reyelt. ''We make it fresh each day."
''Sandwiches?" offers Simmons. Indeed, slices of cold meatloaf on crusty bread with ketchup or spicy salsa are another of America's great culinary inventions.
Parish Cafe and Bar, 361 Boylston St., 617-247-4777. Franklin Cafe, 278 Shawmut Ave., 617-350-0010.
