Throw a dumpling party, let the guests do the work
When I was growing up in Honolulu, if we wanted to eat dumplings -- or any of the other things my Mom didn't make -- we'd go out. I have my piano teacher to thank for introducing me at age 11 to Woodlands, her favorite northern Chinese restaurant. Woodlands' potstickers led me to favor pan-fried and steamed dumplings, known as guo tie (pronounced gwo tyeh), over the boiled variety known as jiaozi (jow dzu). I remember the crunchy yet slightly chewy wrappers and the balance of meat and vegetables, which made a light and juicy filling.
Friends in college, and later, friends in China, made up for my lack of hands-on experience with dumplings. They taught me the traditional way to make dumpling skins -- the ratio of flour to water, how to roll a long snake of dough and yank apart 1-inch pieces, and how to use a dowel to roll each blob into a flat round. I also discovered dumpling parties. Why not foist the work on party guests, who might enjoy the exercise?
After guests have been offered something to drink, bring them into the kitchen and let them put the little packets together assembly-line style. Have the filling and wrapper ingredients lined up on the counter, the steaming pot ready, give some basic instructions, and watch the party unfold.
Learning how to compose and season the filling has been tricky. I've tasted many bad dumplings in Chinese restaurants, some with too-thick wrappers encasing big hunks of meat. I've even participated in making awful dumplings. At a college friend's dumpling party, we tucked ground turkey and diced celery inside wrappers and later gnawed politely through the tasteless nubbins. Since then I've leaned toward more tender vegetables, such as Napa cabbage. Still, Chinese dumplings, like Italian ravioli, offer the adventurous cook an opportunity to create new varieties of fillings.
There are several theories about making the filling less dense. Some cooks add cornstarch, others an egg. According to Yi Wang of Wang's Fast Food in Somerville (see related story, Page C1), one key to light meat filling is to add a little water once the meat has been mixed with soy sauce and ginger and other seasonings, then stir in some oil.
Think of dumplings as a lot of work up front and a tasty convenience food later; freeze some uncooked and store in a plastic bag, then boil or pan-fry and steam when the urge to snack strikes. Like many other traditional Chinese dishes, store-bought can't duplicate the ones you make yourself. Maybe it's time to throw a party.
