Fish maw

Grouped along with shark fin, sea cucumber, and abalone as Asian delicacies from the sea, fish maw is the dried stomach lining or air bladder of a large fish. It's used as an ingredient in soups in Cantonese restaurants, including Chau Chow Dim Sum and Seafood Restaurant in Dorchester. Chau Chow, which in May took over the space that once was Linda Mae's, a Morrissey Boulevard diner that was replaced a few years ago by a short-lived pan-Asian steakhouse, is one of a small chain that includes Grand Chau Chow and Chau Chow City, both in Chinatown.

Here, fish maw is found along with shrimp and squid in the house seafood soup and with crabmeat in a crab and fish maw soup. ``It's very similar to tripe," explains Chau Chow manager Clayton Luu. ``It's white and looks kind of like styrofoam," he says. ``It doesn't really have a strong taste -- it's mostly used for texture." When it's added to fish soup, it acts like a sponge, soaking up the flavors of the broth while keeping its appealing chewy texture. It's also odorless, Luu says. Despite its intimidating name, which suggests a hungry fish's gaping jaw or gullet, fish maw ``is actually pretty plain," says the manager, and very popular with customers. Chau Chow Dim Sum and Seafood Restaurant , 699 Morrissey Boulevard, Dorchester, 617-288-8188. -- LEIGH BELANGER