Small summer squashes
What they are: Some of summer's most prolific vegetables, summer squash and zucchini, of the cucurbita pepo family, can reach the size of baseball bats if left unchecked in the garden. But these New World natives are best eaten when they are immature, says John Lee of Brookline's Allandale Farm. Lee and his staff pick Allandale's summer squash varieties -- scalloped pattypans, brilliant yellow zucchini called Goldrush, and nutty Lebanese cousa -- when they're between four and 10 inches long. The small ones are the darlings of the table, with names like Eight Ball (dark green tennis balls), Floridor (round and yellow), Flying Saucer (green centers with fluted yellow edges), and pattypan (scalloped and pale green).
How to use them: There's not too much taste difference between the different varieties, says Lee, although pattypans have a firmer, more grill-friendly texture. Summer squash's mellow flavor and adaptable texture make it a fixture in the summer kitchen. These unassuming veggies can be rubbed with oil and set on the grill rack, steamed, or mashed with garlic, spices, and olive oil for a Tunisian-style meze dish. Thinly sliced squashes make a fine bed for roast chicken pieces -- the poultry juices baste the vegetable during cooking. You can also slice the little guys and layer them with tomatoes and mozzarella for a splendid summer casserole. To stir-fry, heat a thin film of olive oil in a large skillet, add the zucchini, and let them cook until they are golden on one side before turning. Or, as Marcella Hazan writes in ``Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking," zucchini (and its relatives) ``can be baked, fried, sauteed, stewed, grilled; it can be cut into sticks, rounds, flat long slices, julienne strips, dice; it can be grated, mashed, or hollowed and stuffed." That's a lot of leeway for one vegetable.
Where to find them: Summer squash's prolific growing habits keep supply high and prices low at farmer's markets and farm stands. Look for firm squash with unblemished, shiny skin, and a sweet, clean smell. -- LEIGH BELANGER 