The season is short but sweet (and tart)
The season for some farmers' market fruit is so short, and the fruit so delicious on its own, that it may seem counterintuitive to do anything with it besides devour it out of hand. That's the case with yellow plums like the Shiro variety found at tables run by Kimball Fruit Farm of Pepperell and others.
The farm is in the midst of its two-week season for the plums, which are a little sweeter than some other varieties but still have that tart edge that plum lovers find so addictive. The Japanese variety is hardier than some, which means that the trees not only survive the New England winter but tend to bloom later, after the risk of spring frost has passed. ``Plums are one of those things where 20 percent of the time you just don't have a crop," says Kimball owner Carl Hills. ``We're not blessed with that temperate California climate."
Plum trees occupy only a half-acre at Kimball, where apple s are the majority crop with 30 of the 50 acres, peaches are second with 8 acres, and the balance is mostly devoted to berries. Even though the farm sells to wholesale and retail markets, the juicy yellow plums are exclusively a retail product. Those lucky enough to be overrun with the Shiros can certainly make jam or a tart, but in the heat of late summer, they also make a beautifully bright, easy sorbet. Briefly cook them in a sugar syrup just until they break down, then cool, puree, and freeze. Or forget all that and just take a bite. -- JOE YONAN 