Big gulps

Toast the fall season by raising a stein of Oktoberfest beer.

The amazing Ayinger Oktober Fest-Märzen is produced at the family-owned brewery in the countryside near Munich. Sadly for Oktoberfest revelers, this beer is not served at Munich's bash, because the brewery is outside the city limits. The beer is beautifully balanced and deep gold in color with a nutty malt sweetness, a mild hop bite, and a very clean finish. About $3.60 for a 17-ounce bottle. Available at Wine Gallery, 516 Commonwealth Ave., 617-266-9300.

Berkshire Brewing Company's Oktoberfest is ``a big beer in a big bottle," says brewer Chip DeForest. At about 6.8 percent alcohol by volume, it's stronger than most Oktoberfests, so be careful. Its malty flavor with undertones of caramel and hop spiciness go es down smooth. And its deep amber color looks very pretty in the glass. About $4 for a 22-ounce bottle. Available at Downtown Wine and Liquors, 225 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville, 617-625-7777.

Summit House Oktoberfest from Paper City Brewing isn't as high in alcohol (6.2 percent) as BBC's, but it has a lot of big flavor. Its malt character is marked by raisiny, toasty flavors. It's full but dry, and it has a prickly hop finish from German Tettnanger hops. Available at Marty's Liquors, 675 Washington St., Newton, 617-332-1230.

The closest you can get to the look and feel of a German beer hall in this area is in Harvard Square. John Harvard's Brew House Oktoberfest, with its golden brown color, caramel-y malt sweetness, and pleasantly tingly hop finish, is very easy to drink. $4.50 for 15 ounces at John Harvard's Brew House, 33 Dunster St., Cambridge. 617-868-3585.

A.C.