Jambalaya: Something to stew over

Johnny Levins loves big flavors and rustic foods. No dish in his repertoire represents this better than jambalaya. It reminds the Nevis-born chef of his mother's pepper pot, a Caribbean one-pot meal in which vegetables, meats, and spices -- essentially whatever is on hand -- are cooked together, so the flavors meld. ``With Caribbean cooking, it's all about the spices," says Levins.

Levins, who with his partner, Jodi Auerbach, owns Something Savory, a restaurant and catering business in Arlington, has been making the spicy Creole specialty for more than 20 years. Jambalaya (pronounced djum-buh-LIE-ya), is a highly seasoned rice dish from Louisiana. It includes Creole's holy trinity -- celery, peppers, and onions -- along with andouille sausage. The pot might also contain chicken, pork, shrimp, oysters , or mussels. Most recipes call for cooking the rice with the stew, but Levins recommends simmering the grains separately so the rice doesn't end up mushy or sticking to the pot.

Levins's jambalaya is vibrantly seasoned with a warming heat. It makes a great party dish, he says, because ``everything is in one pot." So invite a bunch of friends over and start chopping. Don't skimp on the seasonings. -- LISA ZWIRN

Something Savory, 1312 Massachusetts Ave., Arlington 781-648-0333.