Buried in vermicelli

Serves 10

From Fez, this Moroccan chicken dish (named shaariya medfouna), is hiding under a mound of crushed vermicelli, which is decorated with alternating stripes of confectioners' sugar, cinnamon, and chopped fried almonds. Claudia Roden suggests omitting the sugar if you think guests will prefer the dish without it.

2	whole chickens (3 1/2 pounds each)
5 1/2	cups water
4	large onions, coarsely chopped
2	teaspoons ground cinnamon
1	teaspoon ground ginger
1	teaspoon saffron threads or powder
	Salt and pepper, to taste
10	tablespoons butter
1	tablespoon honey
2	teaspoons orange flower water (optional)
1/2	cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2	cup chopped fresh coriander
1	cup slivered almonds
1 1/2	tablespoons vegetable oil
2	pounds dried vermicelli nests
2	teaspoons ground cinnamon (for sprinkling)
	Confectioners' sugar (optional)

1. Use two deep Dutch ovens. To each pan, add 1 chicken, breast side up, and 2 1/4 cups water. Bring to a boil and skim off the skum . To each pan, add half the onions, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ginger, 1/2 teaspoon saffron, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmer for 1 hour, turning the chickens halfway through cooking.

2. Lift the chickens from the pan and transfer to large bowls. When cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones. Cut the meat into 2-inch pieces.

3. Transfer the liquid from one pan into the other. Bring to a boil and let the mixture bubble steadily until it is reduced by half and a thick sauce results.

4. Whisk 4 tablespoons of the butter into the liquid, then the honey, and orange flower water, if using. Simmer 2 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Stir in the parsley and coriander.

5. In a skillet, heat the oil and cook the almonds for a few minutes, stirring often, until lightly browned. Drain on paper towels. When they are cool, chop the almonds.

6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in a large bowl, crush the vermicelli nests with your hands. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook, stirring often at the beginning, for 5 minutes or until it is tender but still has some bite. Drain and return to the pot.

7. Cut the remaining 6 tablespoons butter into small pieces. Stir them into the pasta with salt.

8. On a very large platter, arrange the chicken and sauce. Cover it with a mountain of vermicelli.

9. Making the top of the dish look like rays emanating from the center, make alternating lines of cinnamon, confectioners' sugar, if using, and almonds. Adapted from "Arabesque"