Two whites that can stand up to the bird
Iris Hill Oregon Pinot Gris 2005. Lively, appealing aromas of ripe pear and spice; crisp and bright with straightforward apple and pear flavors. About $15. At Brookline Liquor Mart, 617-734-7700; Wine Bottega, North End, 617-227-6607; Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230.
De Wetshof Estate "Bon Vallon" Robertson Chardonnay 2005. A hefty hit of unoaked, lemon-tinged chardonnay fruit with some spice and toast; plenty of earth and mineral business going on here, too. About $16. At Medfield Wine Shop, Medfield, 508-359-4097; Wine Press, Brookline, 617-277-7020; Fine Wine Cellars of Chestnut Hill, 617-232-1020 .
Two sleek and stylish reds
Mitolo "Jester" McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004. Abundant, concentrated, and juicy black cherry fruit nicely trimmed with dried herbs; big but balanced Aussie mouthful. About $20. At Wine Gallery, Brookline, 617-277-5522; Brix, South End, 617-542-2749; Fine Wine Cellars of Chestnut Hill.
Alvaro Palacios "Les Terrasses" Priorat 2003. Delicious dark red fruits, loamy earth, and a shot of appetizing acidity; poised, supple, medium-weight beauty. Fine example of stylish, modern winemaking that enhances, rather than masks, the local color. About $30. At Ball Square Fine Wine & Liquors, Somerville, 617-623-9500; Fifth Avenue Liquors, Framingham, 508-872-7777; Marty's, Allston, 617-782-3250.
A pair to knock them out
Melville Estate Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2005. Big fleshy, flashy bundle of pure, sweet, intense New World pinot fruit; there's little structure here, but the impression is overwhelmingly silky and luxe. About $30. At Wine and Cheese Cask, Somerville, 617-623-8656; Gordon's Fine Wine, Waltham, 781-893-1900; Brix.
Argyle "Nuthouse" Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2003. Warm, inviting aromas of sheer ripe fruit; a generous, deeply satisfying pinot noir with complex flavors of licorice, coffee, and brown spice; just blooms in the glass. About $45. At Wine Cellar of Silene, Waltham, 781-890-2121; Spirited Gourmet, Winchester, 781-721-9463; Upper Falls Liquors, Newton, 617-969-9200. -- STEPHEN MEUSE