It's all gravy from here

Gravy comes in all consistencies, from the kind that's so thick it coats the turkey like a blanket to thinner versions that seem more like French sauces. We prefer the thinner ones. This is the least complicated part of roasting the bird. It's also the messiest. But when you're done, there's nothing else to do but sit down and enjoy your own efforts.

This gravy is the consistency of heavy cream, thickened with a butter-flour paste that is whisked into the simmering broth. Once cooked, the sauce thickens and you're finished.

Begin with the turkey drippings in the pan. You have plenty of time while the turkey rests on a platter or craving board. Pour hot water or stock into the pan drippings, scrape the pan to remove all the sediment, and strain the mixture into a saucepan. You can use a gravy separator to remove the fat, or do it the old-fashioned way: Spoon off the fat little by little with a large spoon. Then add a big splash of red or white wine, sherry, or port, let the mixture simmer for a few minutes to burn off the alcohol, and whisk in the butter paste.

There's never enough gravy for turkey, so leftovers are almost a moot point. If you're lucky to have a few spoonfuls, use it on hot turkey sandwiches for lunch on Friday (see D4). Or help yourself to cold turkey and hot gravy when the rest of the house is asleep. -- SHERYL JULIAN