Rich flavor makes this one to savor

A stained and dog-eared copy of "Cooking With the New American Chefs" is never far from this cook's stove, even though the chefs in the volume are no longer new and the recipes are more than 20 years old. Who cares? When dishes are good, they deserve an encore -- or even an extended performance.

This particular favorite, cheesecake with smoked salmon, comes from chef Richard Perry , who was a celebrated restaurateur in St. Louis in the 1980s. Known for using seasonal and regional products in original ways, Perry drew on his rural Midwestern heritage and memories of growing up on a farm in central Illinois to develop his cuisine.

The words cheesecake and smoked salmon aren't usually paired, but if you think of this as a savory cheesecake it all makes sense. Light, creamy, and rich, the finished loaf is infused with the saltiness of the smoked fish and the sweetness of sautéed leeks.

As an elegant version of a favorite bagel topping, it works equally well at a buffet-brunch or on the table with cocktails. It can be baked in advance and refrigerated for several days, which helps keep last - minute party preparations at a minimum. Serve it with the plainest crackers, so it won't interfere with the subtle flavors.

Though food trends change as fast as last year's popular starlets, some recipes transcend time. -- NECEE REGIS