Taming the Fire

Comparing a roasted chili pepper with a raw one is a little like comparing a ripe fruit with a green one. In the roasted version, the fiery heat has mellowed, the taste is sweeter, and the texture is moist and fleshy. We tried this with chilies that are ordinarily too hot to bite into, cooking them all over until lightly charred, then simmering them in a pot of pork. The resulting flavors were intense but not burning, the bowls of saucy meat deeply flavored with a warm heat. You can also stuff milder roasted chilies with mashed black beans and jack cheese, then serve them with a highly seasoned guacamole for a vegetarian supper. Roasted chilies keep well in the refrigerator; add them to other wintry stews and sauces for a spark of heat on the dark, cold days of winter.

TO ROAST CHILIES

Although we refer to these as roasted chilies, we actually turn the oven to the broil setting, use a charcoal grill, or hold them with tongs over a gas burner until they are charred. Broiling is the simplest method. Afterward, you can peel them or leave on the skins.

Turn on the broiler. Set whole chilies on a small baking sheet and slide it under the flame so it's about 6 inches from the element. Cook for about 8 minutes, turning the chilies often, until the skin is charred all over. Watch carefully.

If you want to peel the chilies, place them in a paper bag, fold down the top to seal it, and set aside for 20 minutes. The steam loosens the skin for easier peeling.

Most people are sensitive to the hot oils in chilies, so put on disposable gloves to peel them. Discard the stem and seeds whether you peel the chilies or not.

Refrigerate the chilies in a plastic container for up to three weeks.

CHILIES STUFFED WITH BLACK BEANS AND CHEESE
SERVES 4

BEANS
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small red onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 red cherry or jalapeno pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped (see above)
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 can (16 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup vegetable stock
Salt and black pepper, to taste

In a large deep skillet, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, or until the onion is very soft.

Add the garlic, chili pepper, and oregano. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the parsley.

Add the black beans and 1/4 cup of the stock. Cook for 2 minutes or until the beans are warmed through.

Transfer the bean mixture to a large shallow bowl. With a fork, coarsely mash the beans, adding the remaining stock a little at a time until all of the beans are mixed in. Add salt and taste for seasoning. Add more salt or black pepper, if you like.

CHILIES
Vegetable oil (for the dish)
8 Anaheim or poblano chilies, roasted but left whole (see left)
1/2 pound jack cheese, sliced into 8 pieces
1 jalapeno, serrano, or Anaheim pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped (see left)
Salt, to taste

Set the oven at 350 degrees. Very lightly oil a 10-inch baking dish.

Slit the chilies along one side and open each like a book. Carefully remove the stems and seeds so the chilies remain whole. Spoon some of the bean mixture onto one side of each chili. Top with a piece of the cheese. Sprinkle with the chopped roasted pepper and a little salt. Fold the chili closed. Transfer them to a baking dish, arranging them in one layer.

Bake the chilies for 30 minutes or until the cheese melts. Serve at once.

CHILI CON CARNE (WITH PORK)
SERVES 4

Bowls of chili in Mexico and New Mexico are made without beans. Here we cook a generous amount of onions with chunks of pork and roasted chilies. Serve with a side of black beans.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 serrano chilies, roasted, peeled, and seeded (see left)
2 teaspoons chili powder
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2 cups water
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the onions and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until they soften. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute more.

Add the pork to the pan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the meat looks cooked at the edges.

Meanwhile, coarsely chop the chilies.

In a small bowl, combine the chili powder, oregano, cinnamon, and salt. Add the mixture to the pan and stir the pork around to coat it in the seasoning.

Add the water and chopped chilies. Bring to a boil. Turn down the heat, partially cover the pan, and cook the pork for 2 hours or until the meat is very tender when pierced with a fork.

Stir in the cilantro and taste for seasoning. Add more salt or chili powder, if you like.