Cocoa tagliatelle

"The concept of an enoteca," says Babak Bina, who owns the Beacon Hill wine bar Bin 26 Enoteca with his sister, Azita Bina-Seibel, "we didn't invent." But Bina says the siblings' enoteca is unique to Boston, where few other restaurants focus on such a wide range of wines from small producers. Some of the lighter reds, like nebbiolo and beaujolais cru, pair well with one intriguing menu item -- the cocoa tagliatelle ($15), says chef Bina-Seibel.

The handmade tagliatelle is paired with porcini mushrooms; cocoa gives the pasta a musty, earthy flavor that complements the dense, silky fungi. The herb nepitella, also known as calamint, brings a muted brightness to the dish. Bina-Seibel says she tries to limit most menu items to four ingredients, and in this case, tagliatelle, garlic, porcini, and nepitella comprise a simple pasta memorable for its firm, satisfying grip on the senses. Bin 26 Enoteca, 26 Charles St., 617-723-5939. -- LEIGH BELANGER