Popovers give dishes a holiday lift
Simple, luxurious, and savory don't describe just any dinner bread. You have to be talking about popovers. In the time it takes for the oven to come up to temperature, the holiday cook can assemble the ingredients, pour them into the pan, and present something oven-fresh and cheese-stroked. These popovers are crusty on the outside, soft and eggy within, and ideal beside a glorious roast -- or even a bowl of soup.
The charm of popovers is the way in which an uncomplicated set of ingredients magically bake into puffy little creatures, ready to be devoured right on the spot. The elements -- whole milk, eggs, flour, a small amount of melted or liquid fat, plus any additional seasoning -- are pretty standard. These are mixed lightly and when they're poured into popover pans or muffin cups, they skyrocket in a hot oven. The batter is a fine canvas for fresh herbs, ground spices, grated cheese, even bits of bacon or ham, as the state of leftovers dictate. This batch is festive with Parmesan cheese, parsley, and thyme. The herbs complement roast pork, lamb, or beef and the cheese gives it a fragrant edge. These bouffant treats are an old-fashioned delight, and an enchanting change of pace on the New Year's table. -- LISA YOCKELSON 