Ward off chill winds with New World wines

Most weeknights supper at our place is something long-simmered and ladled out of an enameled cast-iron pot. It's likely the simmering happened on the weekend when there was time to assemble and prep ingredients. That we're reheating dinner rather than making it from scratch pretty much every night doesn't make the experience a whit less satisfying. At the last minute, someone will descend to the cellar to fetch the wine.

This time of year that will mean red wine. And while a midweek supper doesn't normally call for anything fancy, we'll expect whatever we draw the cork on to pull its weight, making our time at the table more of a pleasure. It's the least we expect from any wine.

With this first plonk column of the new year, we're raising the price ceiling from $10 to $12. The decision stems in part from the continued decline in the value of the dollar, a situation that makes all European wines more expensive than they might otherwise be. The change will also allow us to report on some California wines that otherwise wouldn't make the cut due to high costs of winemaking there.

This particular group is an eclectic collection with nothing more in common than their New World provenance and a robust, flavorful profile that makes for ideal winter-weight sipping -- leftovers or no. -- STEPHEN MEUSE

Martin Ray California "Red," 2003. The scale may be modest, but the proportions are spot on. There's a nice mouth-filling quality to the fruit, good concentration, and a bit of length. A steady, satisfying, appealing sip. About $14 for the oversize, finger-loop jug (a full liter, one-third more than a standard bottle). At OurGlass Wine Co., Saugus, 781-941-8068; Andover Liquors, Andover, 978-470-0500; Kingston Liquors, Kingston, 781-585-4462.

Cartlidge & Browne California Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004. Good color and extraction with coffee, tobacco, and cassis aromas that repeat faithfully on the palate. Good depth of flavor, with a modicum of complexity and nice balance; fine value here. About $12. At Golden Goose Market, North End, 617-367-3198 ; Vintages, West Concord, 978-369-2545; OurGlass.

Peralta Winery California Syrah, 2004. Dense, slightly gamy fruit that's fleshy and chewy; maybe little texture but good length; some will find the vanilla notes a little intrusive. About $10. At Brix, South End 617-542-2749; Ball Square Fine Wine & Liquors, Somerville, 617-623-9500; Solera, Roslindale, 617-469-4005.

Casa Julia Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003. Earthy aromas; little edge but lots of flavor and plenty of readily identifiable Chilean character. About $12. At Beverly Wine and Beer Co., Beverly, 978-524-0300 ; Wine Emporium, South End, 617-262-0379 ; The Wine Express, Norwood, 781-255-7090.

Jelu Argentina Syrah 2004. A big, ripe, juicy palooka that's not without a certain finesse; good acidity and some lovely bright fruit flavors. A likeable lug. About $12. Leary's Fine Wines, Natick, 508-653-6221 ; Wine Sense, Andover, 978-749-9464 ; Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230 .

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net