A chicken in every pot
These days, humble coq au vin (French for "rooster in wine") doesn't contain a rooster, nor is it modest. The tough old bird has been replaced by tender modern chickens. Braising a young chicken was thought to be a waste of tender meat. Also, the connective tissue of older birds gives the sauce a richness that a young chicken can't.
Today's coq au vin should more appropriately be called poulet au vin. To stay with the idea of simmering poultry in a winey sauce, begin with chicken legs and thighs, which can stand up to the longer cooking.
Brown the chicken pieces in oil, then add a flavoring packet of garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns, along with bacon, a little tomato paste, and of course, wine. Simmer the meat for about half an hour, then saute mushrooms and add them to the legs to simmer together briefly.
There are recipes that might have you at the stove for a much longer time, and the versions of coq au vin made in France for centuries can be complicated. We've streamlined the process. Braising both tenderizes meats and mellows strong wines, making coq au vin sweet and earthy. As with most slow-cooked dishes, time in the refrigerator helps mellow and blend the flavors, making each day's leftovers even tastier. This recipe will allow more time to spend around the fire sipping wines with friends and less at the dishwasher with greasy pots and pans. -- JILL SANTOPIETRO 