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JOY OF BAKING | BUTTER AND SPICE

This rich, fruity treat fills the senses

(WENDY MAEDA/GLOBE STAFF)

Buttery, gingery, and filled with fruit and nuts, this handsome and substantial cake is one of the glories of winter baking. The confection is spicy and aromatic , with the earthy taste of dried cherries, dates, two kinds of raisins, and chopped crystallized ginger. Slices or thick fingers of the cake can be paired with poached or baked pears or apple s for dessert. Or the moist cake can be just right for afternoon tea or coffee.

The bountiful batter is built on plenty of butter and eggs to achieve its structure and moistness. The dried fruits get a boost from an hour-long soaking in rum, and spices are sifted with flour to distribute them throughout the batter. A small amount of apricot preserves is added to underscore the fruits. The baking time is long in a low oven -- set at 275 degrees -- so that the ingredients will meld evenly and carefully. This is essential to retaining the integrity of the fruit and nuts, and giving the cake an even texture.

Winter cakes such as this can be robust and darkly provocative. Dried fruits add intensity, a full pound of butter ensures an ultra-rich composition, and light brown sugar lends a molasses-and-caramel undertone. Because it is so rich and fruity, the confection keeps well, providing days of enjoyment -- a cake to make the winter brighter. -- LISA YOCKELSON

Recipe:
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