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Gobi manchurian
(Zara Tzanev for the Boston Globe)

Chinese and Indian cultures mix

Indian-Chinese food is one of the most popular styles of cooking in India. When I was growing up, that's what we ate when we were hanging out with friends.

The cuisine is believed to have originated with the Chinese in Calcutta, a community that emigrated from China starting in the late 1700s. They moved to India in search of economic freedom. In the beginning they worked on the docks and in tanneries. Later, as businesses and restaurants were established, Chinese cooking was adapted to suit the spicy tastes of the Indian sub continent.

With its robust flavors and spices, Indian-Chinese cuisine is very different from the Chinese food served in restaurants here. Beef and pork are absent because of the population of Hindus and Muslims, and spices such as cumin, coriander, turmeric, and hot chili are common. Popular meats include chicken, mutton, and fish. Non-Chinese vegetables such as cauliflower and potato, made in India's vegetarian community, are part of the cuisine. The food is reminiscent of dishes from Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand.

One of the main styles of Indian-Chinese food is Manchurian, and a popular dish is gobi Manchurian, cauliflower fritters. Some say it is named after the region of Manchuria in northeast Asia.

Indian-Chinese food is available at Indian Dhaba in Allston, Dakshin in Framingham , and Chennai Woodlands in Ashland.

At Dakshin restaurant in Framingham, says manager Raji Rajan, "Gobi Manchurian is among our more popular dishes, both as an appetizer and entree." At the restaurant, the cauliflower florets are dipped into a spicy batter, then fried and sauteed with jalapeno chili peppers and onions. "The freshness, choice of cauliflower, and a special recipe make this dish really stand out," says the restaurant manager. As an appetizer, the cauliflower is either served with a chili-garlic dipping sauce or coated with the sauce. As a main course, it is served in a salty and robust sauce, over fragrant basmati rice or fried rice.

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