Small Gifts From Spain

We never tire of Spanish tapas. As Sheryl discovered recently during a visit to Seville in the south of the country, you can stand at the same bar several nights in a row, eat the same little dishes, and still be thrilled with what's placed before you. Perhaps it's the simplicity of the food. With so few ingredients, you wonder, how can the dish have that much flavor? A slice of mountain ham, for instance, draped on toasted bread doesn't sound like much, but begin with real jamon serrano that's sliced especially for your plate, add crusty bread that's perfectly toasted, and finish with a drizzle of oil so aromatic you can almost smell it from your perch at the bar, and the ordinary becomes sublime. Same with large shrimp, still in their shells. Sauteed in a little and a sprinkle of salt, they make an irresistibly exciting dish. And late at night at a crowded neighborhood spot in Spain as you jostle for bar space and sip cold beer, tapas becomes a real adventure in culture and flavors.

SHRIMP WITH SALT
SERVES 6

Saute these shrimp in their shells. It takes a little work for the diner (it's a mess to eat), but the shells add great flavor. Use coarse sea salt, so some of the crystals adhere to the shells.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, left whole and crushed
1 pound large shrimp, unpeeled, tails intact
2 tablespoons large salt crystals, or to taste

Heat a large cast-iron or other heavy-based skillet until very hot. Add the oil and then swirl it around quickly.

Add the garlic and cook, shaking the pan constantly, until it is browned enough to infuse the oil with flavor. Discard the garlic.

Add the shrimp. Sprinkle with salt and cook the shrimp over medium-high heat, turning often, for 3 minutes or until the shrimp are pink and firm.

Transfer the shrimp to a platter or individual plates and serve at once.

OPEN-FACED SERRANO SANDWICHES
SERVES 6

6 thick slices crusty bread
1 large clove garlic, left whole and crushed
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
12 thin slices serrano or other artisan-quality ham

Toast the bread. When it is hot, immediately rub it with garlic, then sprinkle with oil.

Drape 2 slices of ham on each slice of bread and serve at once.

COD AND AVOCADO
SERVES 4

These tapas of raw cod and avocado are almost like Spanish sushi. Only the best-quality cod (see below), a ripe avocado, and good olive oil should be used.

1 1/2-pound piece very fresh cod
1 ripe avocado
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons top-quality olive oil

Use a long straight-edge knife to cut the cod on a slight diagonal as thinly as possible. You should be able to see through the slices. Arrange them overlapping on a platter.

Halve the avocado. Remove the pit. Slip a spoon the size of the avocado half between the flesh and the skin. Slide out the flesh. Sprinkle all over with lemon juice. Set the avocado on a board, cut side down. Slice it thinly and arrange on top of the cod. Do the same with the other half.

Sprinkle the dish with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Serve at once.

TOMATO TOASTS
SERVES 6

Instead of blanching and peeling tomatoes, halve them and grate them on the large holes of an ordinary box grater.

2 ripe tomatoes
6 thick slices crusty bread
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
Salt, to taste

Halve and seed the tomatoes. Set a box grater over a plate. Grate the tomatoes on the largest holes. When you get to the skin of the fruit, discard it.

Toast the bread and halve the slices. Spread the tomatoes on the bread. Sprinkle with olive oil and salt. Serve at once.

SLOW-COOKED TOMATOES AND BELL PEPPERS
SERVES 6

Cook the grated tomatoes slowly for an hour. Spoon onto crusty bread or top with a soft-cooked egg.

8 plum tomatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic
Handful fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded and finely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste

Halve and seed the tomatoes. Set a box grater over a plate. Grate the tomatoes on the largest holes. When you get to the skin of the fruit, discard it.

In a heavy-based skillet, heat the oil. Add the garlic and parsley. Cook over low heat, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Add the grated tomatoes, bell peppers, salt, and black pepper. Continue cooking over high heat, stirring often, for 1 more minute.

Turn the heat to low (if you have a heat diff user, place it under the skillet). Continue cooking the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour or until the vegetables turn jammy. Serve at once.