Dorchester restaurant spreads good word about dreamy appetizer
Chicken liver rarely evokes an indifferent response. It's a love-it- or- hate-it kind of food. If you're in the camp that's passionate about its earthy, slightly metallic flavor, you'll swoon over this ethereal dish with a hint of sweetness, occasionally found on the menu at 224 Boston St. Restaurant.
This casual, neighborhood bistro, serving new American cuisine, has been a fixture in Dorchester for 17 years. Pete Beresford , who was the sous chef before donning the head chef's apron more than two years ago, admits the appetizer hasn't been served for a while because of the mixed popularity of chicken livers. But fans of the dish, including the staff, are always enthusiastic. "Developing this dish was a collaborative effort," says Beresford. "We had a crew that fed off each other's ideas. A recipe would circulate until we hit the pinnacle of the dish. . . .
"I actually think that was stolen from a Martha Stewart cookbook," he says. "The recipe may have been changed from the book, but I don't even have the original recipe. "
The restaurant serves the dish in small ramekins, with long toast spears, and the tops are caramelized just before serving. "You can get the top browned even without sugar. Or you can sprinkle on a little bit and hit it with a torch," says Beresford.
Home cooks will probably forgo the torch and still enjoy a dreamy dish; the sherry, butter, and cream cheese provide more than enough sweetness. The finished mousse can be spooned into a serving bowl before chilling, or poured into a shaped mold lined with plastic wrap, then turned out after it firms. Served with toast points or crostini, it's a perfect snack for an elegant gathering.-- NECEE REGIS 