Good growing season boosts quality

April in Paris may be a joy, but around here it's the month that can, and often does, pack an entire year's worth of weather into 30 days. It may be a few weeks before we can safely tuck our down comforters away for the season, but it's not too early to start thinking about stashing a few cases of wine under the cellar stairs for when back porch life begins in earnest.

The calendar says 2007, but in wine time it's really 2005, since many reds appearing on shelves now will be of that vintage. Lucky for us, because 2005 was a pretty terrific growing season in Europe -- the second in a row. Good years give the makers of fancier wines an excuse to raise prices, but in the realm of plonk it's usually quality that gets a boost -- good news for those of us in search of a $ 12 wine that thrills down to the toes.

By mixing reds and whites, we're hedging our bets during this transitional season. There's no regional, varietal, or stylistic theme . These picks have nothing more incommon than delicious sipping and excellent value.

Corte Marzago Bianco di Custoza 2005. Some lovely round pear-anise fruit, crisp acidity and a nice pinch of minerality; it's a little honey. Around $10. At Wine and Cheese Cask, Somerville, 617-623-8656; South End Formaggio, 617-350-6996.

Cono Sur Bio-Bio Valley (Chile) Riesling 2006. Ripe, pure, citrus y fruit flavors with genuinely racy acidity. Not complex, but plenty of riesling character to savor. Around $10. Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230; Cardoza's Wine & Spirits, Fairhaven, 508-992-4477; Merchants Liquor Mart, Danvers, 978-774-3540.

Chateau Haut Sociondo Premieres Cotes de Blaye 2005. Plonk that speaks in the recognizable accents of the place it calls home is just about our favorite thing, and here it is. Soil rather than fruit flavors are in the forefront of this sturdy little wine, but if you're craving a stopover in Bordeaux, here's a cheap ticket. Around $11. At Marsh's Package Store, Norwell, 781-878-5042; Vinnin Square Liquor, Swampscott, 781-598- 4111; Wine and Cheese Cask.

Castano Yecla Monastrell 2005. We liked the '03 version well enough to recommend it, but to our palate the '05 is a more appealing wine, with its dense fruit and marked earthiness seemingly in better balance. A pleasing mouthful. Around $11. At Esprit du Vin, Milton, 617-296-9463; Nejaime's Wine Cellars, Lenox, 800-946-3988; Shubie's, Marblehead, 781-631-0149.

Domaine Paul Autard Cotes du Rhone 2005. Almost ready to roll out the Weber? Here's your wine: Bright, juicy, red berry fruit, some hopping acidity and fine length. Alcohol a mite high, but not out of whack. Around $10. Curtis Liquors, South Weymouth, 781-331-2345; Cambridge Wine & Spirits 617-864-7171; Charles Street Liquors, Boston, 617-523-5051.

STEPHEN MEUSE

Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net.