Patrons are well-served from his effort

April 25, 2007

Pupuseria Mama Blanca opened two years ago, after owner Lazaro Orellano had finally saved enough money from his years as a line cook in Chinese restaurants. Like many of his fellow Salvadorans in the States, Orellano started his restaurant career as a dishwasher, then worked his way up to line cook and finally banquet chef at a busy Boston hotel. But he decided that working seven days a week for himself, serving dishes like enchil adas ($2.25) and cheese pupusas ($1.55), was better than working two jobs every day for someone else. "I'm 48 years old, but I feel almost 100," Orellano says. "I moved because I wanted to make my future over here. I wanted to look for something good, more peaceful." In his neighborly East Boston restaurant, Orellano found what he was looking for. Pupuseria Mama Blanca, 389 Maverick St., East Boston, 617-567-5511. -- LEIGH BELANGER

The power of purple continues to grow as the acai berry is turned into Bom Dia Acai Berry with Mangosteen juice. Acai (pronounced ah-sigh-ee) is from Brazilian rain forests and has topped the antioxidant scale, providing more than either pomegranates or blueberries. This super fruit is also loaded with vitamins A, E, and B6, omega fatty acids, and dietary fiber. The little berry that comes from the palm doesn't travel well, so it must be harvested, then refined of its grit right near the source. Combined with aromatic pear-like mangosteen, another fruit we don't see much -- and which is called the "queen of fruits" in Southeast Asia -- the resulting juice is like a natural smoothie with a nutrition powerhouse. Available at Hannaford Supermarket, 55 Russell St., Waltham, 781-893-6776 ; many Shaw's and Stop & Stop markets ; or go to bomdia.com -- RACHEL TRAVERS

Fried cheese is always a crowd pleaser, but as any devoted curd-eater will tell you, some interpretations are created more equal than others. One example is scamorza fritta on the dinner menu at Ristorante Gemelli ($8.95). John Gemelli and his wife, Iledna, the executive chef, find much of their inspiration in John Gemelli's family recipes and trips to Italy. The pair first tried the fried cheese two years ago in Florence. Scamorza, the main ingredient, is an Italian mozzarella-like cheese, drier than its more famous cousin. Though this one is made with cow's milk, occasionally the restaurateurs offer a dish with the buffalo-milk mozzarella version. Served with marinara, this plate is, as John says, "such a simple dish and so delicious." While he does the talking, Iledna just smiles and returns to the kitchen to prepare Italian favorites for the diners, and her native Brazilian dishes for the staff. Ristorante Gemelli, 560 Moody St., Waltham, 781-893-0025. -- EMILY SCHWAB

If you were an Italian villager, you'd carry your carafe or wine bottle to the town market each week and fill it with deep green olive oil. Panzano Provviste e Vino in Southborough is bringing a little bit of la dolce vita to the suburbs with a serve-yourself olive oil dispenser. The extra virgin, cold-pressed oil, called Era Ora (roughly translating to "about time") comes from Calabria in southern Italy and is made for the specialty foods and wine store, owned by and adjacent to Tomasso Trattoria and Enoteca. Calabria produces particularly robust oils; Era Ora is verdant green and tastes buttery and grassy. Since the oil, which is accompanied by samples of the store's homemade ciabatta, went on sale two months ago, customers have started taking home about 30 liters a week, far outselling the other specialty oils in the shop. "It's become a fixture," says store manager Fred Mullins. Panzano employees are on hand to help first-timers fill a 16 - ounce bottle with a screw-on cap ($14.99). Return with your bottle and refills are $12.99. Panzano Provviste e Vino, The Crossings, 154 Turnpike Road (Route 9 east), Southborough 508-485-8884, panzanomarket.com -- ERICA NOONAN