Grilling to perfection

Jasper White offers these tips for grilling fish over a fire :

Firm fish like swordfish, salmon, tuna, and bass are good on the grill. Really flaky or delicate fish -- cod, haddock, and flounder among them -- tend to fall apart as they cook through.

When cooking most fish fillets, leave the skin intact. The crispy skin adds flavor and helps hold the fish together.

White-fleshed fish are prone to parasites and are best cooked through. Darker fish such as tuna and salmon can be grilled so the center is a little less done. Shellfish like scallops, squid, oysters, and clams need to be warmed through on the grill, which also adds a little smoky flavor.

Pair mild fish with more delicate sauces. With fuller-flavored seafood, you can introduce more robust flavors. But take care that you don't mask the taste of the fish .

It is perfectly fine to serve grilled seafood as simply as possible, seasoned only with salt and pepper, olive oil , and a lemon wedge on the side.

JONATHAN LEVITT