Empty-nester now cooks for a crowd

MANSFIELD -- Karen Martin took a close look at her life when her son set off for college last fall, and decided it was the perfect time to make a career change.

The 47-year-old longtime Mansfield resident, a former production coordinator for large corporations, considered her options carefully before settling on a plan: she would combine two passions -- cooking and dealing with the public -- in a new business of her own.

It took a year of preparation, but last week, Martin opened Karen's Gourmet to Go in the Mansfield commuter rail station on Cotter Street.

The operation, run solely by Martin with some assistance at the stove from her mother, Maryella Hill, is predominantly a take-out service that offers weary travelers healthy, flavorful, home-cooked meals at the end of their workday s, as an alternative to a bag of fast food.

Martin has tapped cooking skills she learned years ago from her mother, who offered her family of four children a wide variety of Italian dishes in their Walpole home. "We were served polenta, risotto, dandelions, Swiss chard, and everything else," Martin said. "I was the only one of the children who took an interest in cooking."

"She was the youngest," said Hill of Karen, who was constantly at her side in the kitchen. "She always wanted to help."

Hill has become a big fan of her daughter's cooking, and she admires her initiative in taking the gamble and opening the outlet. "When she first told me about this, I said, 'I think it's wonderful,' " Hill said. "It's always better to say 'I did something' than to say 'I wish I did it.' "

Martin has based the Gourmet to Go menu on results of a survey she took at the train station back in April. She selected items that commuters said they would like to see, along with some of her own personal favorites.

One such dish is called Maryella's Minestrone, a hearty soup that is loaded with vegetables and goes back in the family a couple generations. "We all loved it," said Hill.

Martin also included one of her own prized recipes, Casanova's Chili, a dish she often took to work which invariably left her co-workers clamoring for more. "I actually have a fan base for the chili."

Martin predicts the chili will be a big seller on Sundays this fall, when football fans pass through the station on their way to the Patriots' games. Even though she won't generally be open on Sundays, she plans to take advantage of the foot traffic on game days.

The last year has been intense for Martin. Last October, she began a 20-week course at the Center for Women and Enterprise, a Boston-based nonprofit organization that helped her put together a business plan and explore ways to fund it.

Since she wanted to stay in Mansfield, Martin contacted a member of the Mansfield area Chamber of Commerce late last fall, who suggested she meet with Town Manager John D'Agostino.

"At that point, I wanted to do a chuck wagon, with little black-and-white awnings on the side of the road, selling really high-end food," Martin said. "John D'Agostino suggested the train station instead." Martin said she found D'Agostino enthusiastic, calling her proposal "just what the town needs."

Prodded by the town manager, Martin changed gears and developed a comprehensive plan for a take-out service, where all food was cooked on-site. Since much of the operation required permits, she worked closely with the town.

"I think it's a wonderful idea for the town and for Karen," said D'Agostino. "It allows us to keep the train station open beyond 11 o'clock, so it's more user-friendly. And I'm sure I'll be one of her favorite customers."

The venture also involved installing a full kitchen in the train station, and doing all the accompanying plumbing and electrical work. "I'm probably up to about $20,000, " said Martin of her investment to date. "I never realized how much work it would be. It's so much mental work and physical work."

Gourmet to Go's menu features varieties of egg sandwiches, three types of soup, a choice of wraps, salads that range from side dishes to full meals, daily specials and gourmet desserts. It is open Monday through Friday from 1 to 8 p.m., Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Martin's sister Jeanne Hill finds the restaurant service perfect for Karen. "She has worked in business for most of her life, and she loves working with food," said Hill. "It was a chance to go back and try something she really wanted to do."

Christine Wallgren can be reached at CLWallgren@aol.com.