German vintners celebrate 2005 as a wunderbar vintage
We think of value as the ratio created when you compare what you spend with what you get. When you get more wine (in quality terms) than you expect for the money, that's good value -- whether you spent $10 or $100. High-value wines can emerge from an unusually talented producer, from an underrated (or overachieving) vineyard or growing region, or a property that hasn't yet hit the buying public's radar screen. Or, it can come out of an exceptional vintage. Great vintages are often said to be the high tide that lifts all boats, and savvy wine buyers know that means even the littlest ones.
German winemakers were blessed with such a wunderjahr in 2005. At a recent tasting, I listened to one grower after another speak in glowing terms of the near perfect conditions in which their '05 rieslings were made. And the wines we tasted were indeed delicious.
Naturally, that put us in mind of sniffing out the best at $12 and under in this category -- and what we found wasn't disappointing.
A scintillating balance of acidity and residual fruit sugars is what makes riesling from Germany distinctive. In our opinion, if you haven't yet enjoyed one of these perfectly-toned, kabinett style beauties with lobster salad in a toasted, top-loading hot dog roll, you've missed out not only on one of the world's great wine and food combinations, but on one of the incomparable pleasures of a New England summer.
Selbach Mosel-Saar-Ruwer "Riesling Dry" 2005. Forward, characteristic riesling aromas with a piney keynote; fine freshness and zip; as the label notes, this is a dry style of riesling, so think grilled bluefish, striper, or mackerel. Around $12. Marty's Fine Wine, Newton, 617-332-1230 and Allston, 617-782-3250.
Kühl Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling 2005. Score it a plus for hints of flinty/stony Mosel character; beautifully crisp, fresh and citrussy. Around $12. At Bauer Wine and Spirits, Back Bay, 617-262-0363; Cambridge Wine & Spirits, Cambridge, 617-864-7171.
BEX Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling 2005. Distinctive lemon-grapefruit profile with a bit of spice and nice minerally edge; brisk, refreshing, grown-up sip. Around $12. At Cambridge Wine & Spirits; Bauer.
Seebrich Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Kabinett 2005. Round and robust with luscious fruit; cushy feel but plenty of zip. Around $11. At Curtis Liquors, South Weymouth, 781-331-2345; Blanchard Liquor, Allston, 617-782-5588; A Street Liquors, Hull, 781-925-9421.
Kesseler Rheingau Riesling 2005. Exceptional varietal character; a little weightier style with particularly lovely, ripe riesling fruit. Around $12. At Canton Village Wines & Spirits, Canton ,781-830-9700; Martignetti Liquors, North End, 617-227-4343; Bauer.
STEPHEN MEUSE
Stephen Meuse can be reached at onwine@comcast.net 