We cook

Even if we didn't know about the time-honored New England tradition of salmon and fresh peas on the Fourth (the two used to come into season in early July), the combination would have found its way into our kitchen. On the plate, they are striking and the clean tastes just as appealing. The sweetness of the tiny green peas, perfumed with mint, offsets flakes of rich, unadorned fish. A squeeze of lemon makes a fine trio.

We oven-poach salmon, which gives it the simple, pristine quality of stove-top poaching in an aromatic broth; but the oven method is easier. Make more than you need so you can compose a Nicoise salad (below) for tomorrow's lunch. This classic French preparation, usually made with canned tuna, begins with cooked fish, then a medley of small salads -- green beans, potatoes, and cherry tomatoes -- are tossed with vinaigrette and arranged on the platter. Olives, capers, and hard-cooked eggs are the other colorful garnishes. Leftover peas would be welcome. But there never are any. -- SHERYL JULIAN & JULIE RIVEN

FOR SALMON RECIPES, GO TO E5