Eggplant

It may not be beluga or osetra sturgeon roe, but when eggplants overflow in local gardens, poor man’s caviar should be on the menu. Pair it with pita and an aperitif.

Eggplant caviar is simply the Russian name for Middle Eastern baba ghanouj, or a puree of roasted eggplant, onions, olive oil, and seasonings. A version of the dish is served throughout the Eastern Mediterranean, in Armenia, Greece, Russia, Egypt, Ethiopia, India, and Bangladesh, among others.

Eggplant’s mild flavor and soft texture, which pair well with meats and vegetables, made this fruit popular throughout Asia and the Near East. Thanks to the Moors, eggplants arrived in Europe around the 15th century through Spain and Italy. At first Europeans believed that the purple and white fruits were inedible (along with tomatoes and potatoes, eggplant is part of the nightshade family, some members of which are indeed poisonous). Hence, the Greek word melitzana and the Italian melanzana — from the Latin mala insana, which means ‘‘apple of madness.’’ Also called aubergine, the word eggplant takes its name from the goose-egg shape.

Eggplants are a bitter fruit that sweeten and soften when cooked. Salting eggplants was a common practice to remove excess water and bitterness. Today, the fruits are bred to be less bitter, but salt is still used to extract liquid. Removing water helps eggplants absorb less oil in the pan. To add smokiness to eggplant caviar, char the skin completely or add a touch of smoked sea salt (salttraders.com).

Poor man’s caviar isn’t briny or luxurious, but the spread fills a niche on the summer table: It is vegetarian, the fruits are widely available, and all your guests, whatever their culture, will recognize it.— JILL SANTOPIETRO