Food fight!

NEWTON — The stage lights are on, the cameras are rolling, and NECN’s Billy Costa is talking food. Another episode of "TV Diner" is cooking.

For eight years, Costa hosted and taped another show in this very studio: "Phantom Gourmet" — or "the other show," as some "TV Diner" staffers call it — which now tapes at TV38 at the WBZ-TV studios in Allston, its home for the past four years. The shows have a shared history — one begat the other. And as with most siblings, there exists a rivalry. Each wants to be the most popular Boston food show. Each hopes to expand into other television markets. Each eyes what the other does.

Their competition spills into newspaper and magazine gossip columns — from the "Phantom" camp bragging about better ratings since arriving at TV38, to reports of a "Phantom Gourmet" exclusivity agreement that bars chefs and restaurant owners from appearing on "TV Diner."

"I understand there is another show out there, but whatever — life is short. Let’s just have a good time," says Dave Andelman, chief executive officer of "Phantom Gourmet," which is run like a well-oiled family business. His brother Dan hosts the show, and his brother Michael handles sales. The Andelmans left NECN in 2003 when they couldn’t reach an agreement on a new contract and Costa stayed behind with NECN to launch "TV Diner."

The brothers ask their guests not to appear on "TV Diner" for an unspecified period of time after they do "Phantom." At a recent taping, Dave Andelman explains the reasoning: "If you are going to do our show, don’t do another show for a few months, which is really kind of a standard television thing."

Costa takes issue with the exclusivity agreement of his competitor’s show, which reaches more New England households because it airs on a local broadcast network as opposed to NECN, which is available on cable in New England. "I would happily drive [guests] to the other show," says Costa, who stopped hosting "Phantom Gourmet" in 2003. Costa remained at NECN when they offered to launch "TV Diner," giving him more creative control.

"We, as a show, owe [guests] a giant thank-you for being on our show," Costa says. "For me to ask them to choose sides, it’s totally unfair."

Local chefs have watched the food fight unfold. They try to duck it as best they can. They value the shows because they introduce viewers to restaurants they might never hear of otherwise.

"TV Diner" features higher-end bistros and cafes, providing a behind-the-scenes look at how the food is prepared, with guest chefs. "Phantom Gourmet" revolves around a mysterious reviewer who visits restaurants unannounced. Topics make it feel like more guy’s TV; themes include best burger, steak sandwiches, and lobster rolls. One episode featured reviews of local prison food.

Gordon Hamersley, chef-owner of Hamersley’s Bistro in Boston, says both shows serve the local restaurant community well. ‘‘It’s good for our business,’’ says Hamersley, who has appeared on both shows so many times he’s lost count. ‘‘The thing that makes ‘TV Diner’ and ‘Phantom Gourmet’ unique is that it’s all about the food, and you can’t beat that. When they call, I go, if I am able to do it.’’

But some chefs say they have been caught in the middle.

Joanne Chang, of Flour Bakery in the South End, has made more appearances on "TV Diner" in recent years than "Phantom" because Costa reaches out to her often. A few weeks ago, she demonstrated how to bake cupcakes on the NECN set. She said the Andelmans’ exclusivity agreement is part of the reason she hasn’t appeared on "Phantom" much in recent years.

"You can’t do that in Boston," she says. "I wasn’t comfortable saying that I could do that. No big deal, no hard feelings. They both have their following in Boston." Despite the competition, the shows have a lot in common. Both aim to showcase local chefs and businesses. Both shows tape Thursday afternoons. Both shows rely heavily on on-the-street footage of New England dining destinations and mom-and-pop businesses.

And both shows are expanding their brand.

The Andelmans signed a five-year contract with TV38 this year to continue running "Phantom Gourmet," along with hosting Saturday "Movie Nights" and 38’s marathon food coverage on Super Bowl Sunday. The trio also host two annual food festivals in Boston and published a restaurant guide last year; another is on its way before 2008.

The TV38 deal makes the Andelmans the station’s most recognizable personalities, says Ed Piette, president and general manager of WBZ and its sister station, TV38.

"It sort of gives us a face," Piette says. "We entertain Boston. NECN is primarily a cable news outlet that happens to do some programming. We don’t look at it as competitive. We think we’ve taken [‘Phantom Gourmet’] far beyond for TV38 what NECN would ever do for ‘TV Diner.’ I’m just saying it is what it is.’’

Charles Kravetz, vice president of news and station manager of NECN, says the shows serve different fare aimed at two distinct audiences. But they compete head-to-head nonetheless.

"Absolutely there is a sibling rivalry," says Kravetz, who was at NECN when "Phantom Gourmet" debuted in 1993. ‘‘We wanted to take ‘TV Diner’ and focus more on excellence in cooking and recipes and slightly higher-quality restaurants. We are aimed at a slightly different audience and one that is perhaps a little more interested in fine dining than ‘Phantom.’’’

At a recent ‘‘TV Diner’’ taping, the atmosphere is light-hearted and casual. Costa jokes around with associate producer Jenny Johnson about how fellow NECN anchors eat like horses on taping day. There’s more of a clubhouse vibe here, especially when 20 children stop by for the annual children’s episode.

"We like deputizing the viewers," Costa says after the taping. "Their opinion matters as much as mine, which is why I don’t review the restaurants."

A few weeks ago, "TV Diner" began selling restaurant gift cards to its viewers, and Costa, who is also a DJ on KISS 108, has an eye for a potential kids’ spin-off. The network is also planning a community event tied to ‘‘TV Diner’’ for the near future; officials would not elaborate.

‘‘The main difference with our show is we are very interactive,’’ Costa says. ‘‘We let the viewers dictate a tremendous part of the show. We cook on our show, which is something the other show doesn’t do. We know we bring it to the table every week.’’

At TV38, the mood feels more serious and somewhat corporate, with the Andelmans dressed up in blazers and slacks. Dave makes sure the guests are in place and that the cooked food — from sesame wings to pizza slices — is on display. Dan paces on the set and prepares for his monologue. Michael schmoozes with the restaurateurs.

"It’s not too high-brow," says Dave Andelman. "We’re about food and fun. I see a lot of restaurant criticism out there, and it’s so serious. We work seven days a week, but it’s fun work."

Johnny Diaz can be reached at jodiaz@globe.com.